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A brutalist rebirth in Paris For Mugler’s new creative director Miguel Castro Freitas, the dream of the brand is, and will always be, Paris. Yet, somewhere in his imagination, Antwerp is never too far away. His debut collection took place in a shadowy brutalist underground car park in the edgy 11th arrondissement, the kind of venue that instantly evoked the conceptual underground shows of the late 1990s. Think of those raw, uncompromising moments when Belgian designers storme

A cinematic return to sensuality Haider Ackermann has found his place at Tom Ford. There will only ever be one Tom, but Ackermann has clearly inherited the founder’s flair for the cinematic : that intoxicating blend of power, polish, and provocation. For Spring Summer 2026, he did not simply present a show; he directed one. “I told them I want them to seduce,” he said backstage. “They’re aware they’re seducing, but they act as if they’re not aware of it : it’s all this kind o

A tale of contradictions Once again, Acne Studios proves that it does not just follow the zeitgeist, it toys with it, smirks at it, and then casually reinvents it. For Spring Summer 2026, creative director Jonny Johansson stages a collection that dances shamelessly between masculinity and femininity, never settling for either. Beneath the vaulted ceilings of the Collège des Bernardins, transformed into a smoky, wood-panelled cigar lounge because why not lean all the way into

A debut wrapped in fear and fascination You dare enter the House of Dior?” The question sounded like a warning. It opened the short film by Adam Curtis, commissioned by Jonathan Anderson for his first Dior womenswear show. At 40, the designer was about to cross one of fashion’s most intimidating thresholds: a French institution so charged with history it feels almost alive. Anderson dared, of course. After the success of his menswear debut, his arrival at Dior is one of the s

A boarding pass to nowhere Belgian designer Marie Adam-Leenaerdt decided that the world hadn’t seen enough airport chaos, so she brought it straight to the runway. Her Spring collection transformed the dreaded passport-control maze into a fashion show, complete with the energy of missed flights and overpriced sandwiches. The concept? “Affirming the freedom of clothing” through deconstruction and practicality or at least the illusion of it. Adam-Leenaerdt’s mission was to make

The Courrèges show opened with an arresting image : five models walked out with their faces veiled. But these weren’t religious symbols : they were functional UV shields, reimagined by Nicolas Di Felice. Inspired by protective accessories he encountered during a trip to Thailand, he transformed them into futuristic statements : attached to peaked caps, draped across the face, and tucked into the waistband of a matching A-line miniskirt. A voice began reciting the rising tempe