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The scent of cleaning fluid and revolution Forget Versailles. Forget silk panniers and powdered wigs. While Marie Antoinette is being resurrected all over fashion’s glossy stages, Miuccia Prada decided to turn left, way left into the world of factory canteens and fluorescent lighting. The Miu Miu show opened with the scent of cleaning fluid still hanging in the air, red rubberized flooring underfoot, and melamine-topped tables standing in for the front row seats. One could al

A manifesto of difference “Watching her walk out into the world every day, receiving such judgmental reactions towards her expression, makes me feel sad sometimes,” wrote Steven Raj Bhaskaran in the show notes about his creative and life partner, Hannah Rose Dalton. It was less a sentimental preface than a statement of intent. In a world where “being different isn’t rewarded,” Matières Fécales is here to make difference the new standard. And so, in a gilded salon of Place Ven

The grand rebirth under the planets At long last, the moment the fashion world had been holding its breath for finally arrived. After ten months of whispers, expectations, and the occasional dramatic headline, Matthieu Blazy took over the Grand Palais for his first Chanel collection. The setting was nothing short of cosmic: floating planetary orbs glowing above the crowd, as if Coco herself were watching from a star. It was precisely eight o’clock or, more realistically, a fa

The enfant terrible gets a worthy heir As the Paris fashion crowd descended into the shadowy depths of the Musée du Quai Branly, the energy in the air was… unstable. After a season full of safe debuts, whispers spread that fashion’s long-awaited disruption might finally arrive. Enter Duran Lantink, the Dutch provocateur whose debut as Jean Paul Gaultier’s new creative director was anything but timid. Gaultier, once crowned the industry’s enfant terrible  for daring to put men

An unexpected orchestra Imagine sitting in the front row as Glenn Martens presents his ready-to-wear debut for Maison Margiela, only to discover an orchestra of sixty-one children performing Mozart, Bizet, Strauss, Beethoven, and Prokofiev in adult-size tuxedos. From the tiny pianist duo to the minuscule percussionists who pounded the giant kettle drum with precision, the children were a delightful, exuberant surprise. Their unselfconscious joy was infectious, a stark contras

A house reborn under soft power This fashion show was about a cultural moment, Burton captured something people wanted to hold on to, quite literally. That night, at her sophomore show for the house, the audience proved it. Clients arrived already dressed in her new Givenchy trophies, their pale yellow duchesse satin cabans cinched with expressive black belts, like members of a secret club who all understood the assignment. Softening the architecture Burton’s second collectio