Chanel Fall-Winter 2025: When effortless chic becomes a well-calculated rebellion

At Chanel, Fall/Winter 2025 isn't just a season, it's a statement. And not just any statement: a reinterpretation of effortless chic, where Coco Chanel's legacy flirts dangerously with a rebellious allure. Gone is the image of the demure Parisian woman—Karl would have approved.

A departure in black wick and signature tweed

The show opened with Vittoria Ceretti, looking flawless in a black wicker skirt and a long tweed blazer. Chanel without tweed is a bit like coffee without caffeine: useless.

Look 1

Loli Bahia follows with a play of layering, a vaporous black strand slipped over a full white look, a subtle repetition that establishes itself as a recurring motif from the first passages.

Look 2

The colors are understated, and the makeup, a touch punk, gives the models a more brash attitude. We're not here to play the ingénue.

The micro-bag is back (or never left the catwalks?)

Looks 9, 10, and 12 confirm what we suspected: the micro-bag, that object barely larger than an AirPod case, is back. Chanel has always had a fascination with miniature accessories and stacked pieces.

This time, the house goes further with an accessory that could almost be a jewel, or an ultra-luxurious whim....

Leather, a field of rebellion

Then, a change of tone. From look 32 onward, the models look like they've escaped from an underground club where the dress code is 100% leather. Looks 36, 41, 42: we can feel the silhouettes hardening. The Chanel girl of winter 2025 isn't going to drink hot chocolate on the Left Bank; she's more the type to negotiate a table in the middle of Fashion Week without a reservation.

The Knots: Signature Reinvented

Chanel ties, unties, and reties. This season, the knot is everywhere: around the neck as a statement, in sculptural knit on the dress in Look 57, or in tweed, silk, and wicking.

Look 57

A nod to Coco, who adored it as a bow tie on her blouses, reinterpreted here in a bold, almost rebellious version. More than a romantic detail, it structures silhouettes and asserts a perfect balance between softness and rebelliousness.

The pearl necklace, but make it fashionable

The show's highlight: Look 44. The traditional pearl necklace, once a symbol of classic chic, is transformed into a shoulder bag.

A stroke of genius that merges Coco Chanel's iconic jewel with the essentials of millennials and Gen Z. Heritage and modernity, in a piece that's likely to be on every fashion wishlist by next winter.

Défilé Chanel, Prêt-à-Porter Automne-Hiver 83-84 en mars 1983

In conclusion?

This Chanel FW25 collection plays on ambivalence: a chic yet effortless elegance, a measured yet assertive rebellion. Between sensual transparency, bold leather, and micro-details that make the difference, Chanel reminds us that style is a balancing act. And if Coco invented the concept of liberated elegance, this season seems to pay homage to it with a twist of insolence.