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Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Summer 2025 by Ludovic de Saint Sernin: A Shipwreck in Majesty
- Camz
- Mar 16
- 3 min read
For his first official haute couture collection at Jean Paul Gaultier, Ludovic de Saint Sernin literally delves into the house's archives and emerges with a world inspired by shipwrecks, where water and marine elements serve as creative guides. Between queer piracy, bewitching mermaids, and the remains of ghost ships, each passage tells a gripping story, reinforced by an impeccable mastery of Gaultier's couture expertise.
A Journey to the Heart of the Abyss
From the first pass, the first look embodies a water nymph dressed in a creation with hand-painted details, announcing a narrative and immersive collection.
All the silhouettes oscillate between fluidity and structure, between shine and matte, playing on textures to recreate the sensation of wetness, even in the "wet look" hairstyles.
The show continues with a female pirate draped in a double-faced cashmere cape, before revealing a queer pirate, dressed in a piece adorned with 1,700 leather rivets laced with obsessive regularity.
The house's expertise is fully expressed with the passage of the rudder, represented in macramé and ropes of various diameters, intertwined by hand. The nautical spirit continues with a sail in pleated jersey engraved, sculpted and frozen in the smallest folds, embodying a mermaid frozen at the prow of a vanished ship.
When Couture Becomes Legend
Inspired by the Little Mermaid washed up on the shore, a ruffled silk voile dress unfolds like waves.
Then come a fairy in a pleated mini-dress (look 9), a mischievous Cupid (look 10) and a silhouette (look 11) all in hand-embroidered glass beads, with a silk thread threading 50,000 beads one by one.
References to the JPG archives are omnipresent, notably with the net, a tribute to the designer's iconic stitches, and the opera glove, the house's signature.
Amelia Grey steps forward in a faux crocodile outfit, revealing a stunning latex creation.
Look 16, the caravel takes shape in vaporous and light chiffon on the model's head, while for look 17, the anchor is available in lace with a technique of horsehair covered with chiffon, mixing firmness and softness.
Look 18; Alex Consani graces the runway wearing a red silk dress with the word "naufrage," the name of the collection, covering her left breast. This technique of brass and horsehair covered in chiffon is a nod to the house's expertise! The pleated details of the dress are reminiscent of seaweed following the current of the waves.
Ludovic de Saint Sernin's final tribute to his roots comes with the "Comptesse de Saint Sernin," a nod to his maternal grandmother, between nobility and romanticism.
The Grand Finale: Between Tradition and Modernity
Finally, the bride makes her entrance, inspired by the legendary men's corset from summer 1998, redesigned for 2025. The men's corset is an important element of the house's DNA, found in several past collections created by Jean Paul Gaultier.
Then, the ultimate bridal silhouette is imposed with a swan dress with white feathers and a nude-colored drape.
By reinterpreting the Jean Paul Gaultier legacy through the prism of the shipwreck, Ludovic de Saint Sernin delivers a fascinating collection where every detail is a technical feat, each look a page of maritime couture history.
