Maison Margiela SS26: childhood, couture & clever subversion

Camz
Oct 10
3 min read

An unexpected orchestra

Imagine sitting in the front row as Glenn Martens presents his ready-to-wear debut for Maison Margiela, only to discover an orchestra of sixty-one children performing Mozart, Bizet, Strauss, Beethoven, and Prokofiev in adult-size tuxedos.

From the tiny pianist duo to the minuscule percussionists who pounded the giant kettle drum with precision, the children were a delightful, exuberant surprise. Their unselfconscious joy was infectious, a stark contrast to the models whose mouths were restrained by four-stitched metal rectangles, creating what Martens described as “obliged smiles.” These forced expressions, a nod to Martin Margiela’s concept of anonymity and perhaps to the absurdities of the modern world, left the audience pondering while genuinely smiling themselves.

Heritage and reinterpretation

Martens did not elaborate on the orchestra’s significance, leaving it as a playful surprise. Perhaps it referenced the iconic 1989 Margiela show staged on a rundown playground with children running free, or perhaps it symbolized Martens himself stepping into the adult fashion stage, ready to perform the classics everyone knows.

His approach was calm and grounded, a departure from the dramatic, haunted visions of medieval monks and peeling walls that characterized previous Maison Margiela shows. Instead, Martens embraced streetwear, impeccable tailoring, reappropriated vintage clothing, and subtle subversions of formalwear language.

Minimalist-gothic and streetwise

Unlike John Galliano’s cinematic interpretation of Margiela, Martens remained rooted in the Belgian aesthetic. Coming from Bruges and with experience at Y-Project and Diesel, he understands young, style-conscious consumers and commercial realities.

The collection balanced austerity with street-level relevance: minimalist-gothic long black leather coats, dirty denim outerwear, and trailing tape-ties that recall early Maison Margiela signatures. “My ambition has reconnected to the reality of the street a bit, and that was something we discussed here in the beginning,” Martens said.

Deconstructed tailoring and subtle tweaks

Early looks introduced slightly deconstructed tailoring reminiscent of post-Armani officewear, subversive yet polished.

Martens created elongated V shapes and tucked lapels, enhancing traditional silhouettes while retaining impeccable fit. Trench coats, jackets, and waistcoats were reimagined with these subtle deviations, proving that small tweaks can produce remarkable effects.

Silk veils and adult aspirations

Martens evolved the original Margiela concept of plastic garment bags into luxurious silk-veiled tailoring. A man’s shirt paired with a tuxedo waistcoat peeked beneath translucent layers, while a white evening jacket transformed into a dress with lace subtly visible underneath.

Martens seems intent on appealing not only to Gen Z but to grown-up dressers as well. “I think we could really have everybody, to be honest,” he said. “Even though I’m always going to be a loud person, there was always a really wonderful wardrobe at Margiela. And I would like to think these things could be timeless.”

Day to evening elegance

The collection seamlessly transitioned from day to evening, employing classic Margiela touches. Draped satin floral wrap dresses, vintage-inspired lingerie slips, and tape-shaped silhouettes flirted with sensuality.

Silk scarves fused to the front of formal evening coats and jackets added a rakish nonchalance effortlessly. Each piece demonstrated Martens’s capacity to balance innovation with reverence for the house’s heritage.

A debut that resonates

Stepping into the immense legacy of Maison Margiela, Martens acknowledges the weight of expectation. “So many people think they own it,” he admitted, gesturing to TikTok audiences and fashion purists alike. The provocative mouthpieces are bound to spark debate, yet the collection’s strength, craftsmanship, and playful intelligence may ultimately satisfy a broad spectrum of admirers.

Watching the children take their bows to thunderous applause, it became clear that Martens has captured both the irreverence and the enduring spirit of Maison Margiela.

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