Louis Vuitton Men’s SS26: Pharrell Redefines the Suit on the Forecourt of Beaubourg

Camz
4 days ago
4 min read

Paris in June, the first day of Men’s Fashion Week and the final show of the evening. The raw forecourt of the Centre Pompidou turns into a runway. Pharrell Williams, Artistic Director of Louis Vuitton Men’s, unveils his new Fall-Winter 2025 collection. A monumental nocturnal show, flawlessly orchestrated, where the rigor of tailoring meets the ease of streetwear. A masterclass in style delivered calmly, with the confidence of someone who no longer needs to demand attention. The set design: Bureau Betak.

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Opening act: Vuitton’s new suit

From the very first silhouettes, the tone is set: the suit everywhere but the suit reimagined. Jackets are double-breasted, sharply cut, yet never stiff. Shoulders are structured without aggression. And the trousers? They float. They glide around the body with the ease of a man in a hurry, but one who still takes time to dress well.

The cut is generous, almost oversized, yet always controlled. That’s the strength of this collection: imposing a kind of soft discipline, where structure never compromises comfort.

Second act: Vuitton’s autumn

In the second half of the show, the silhouettes soften, as though the Vuitton man has returned from a long journey and finally sets down his suitcase. The cuts remain precise but the mood becomes warmer, more enveloping, more autumnal.

Colors shift from strict black to earthy, sensory tones. Brown makes its entrance as an inevitability, rendered in subtle gradients, sometimes verging on chocolate.

Taupe, discreet yet sophisticated, defines long coats and monochrome ensembles, perfect for mid-season. Look 37, in particular a flowing trench coat in light coffee tones embodies this transition toward a more organic, muted luxury.

The volumes stay supple, fabrics breathe, and the overall feel suggests a man in motion, ready to face the instability of the in-between season: impervious to the wind, but never to good taste.

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A refined palette

The colors speak softly yet clearly. Deep black, anthracite grey, earthy brown, dense navy blue, and at times a spark of burgundy to electrify the whole. Each look reveals a subtle variation, a whisper of the cold season. And among this dark palette, one detail stands out: the light blue shirt. It recurs like a mantra. Almost every look incorporates it, affirming that beneath every Vuitton jacket beats a classic, almost romantic heart. Pastel blue slices through muted suits, refreshing, illuminating, structuring. A detail, yes; but so persistent it becomes a signature.

Then, in the latter part of the show, the palette warms, becoming more organic. Black gives way to brown, grey fades into taupe, and the mood loosens while staying impeccably sharp. These silhouettes seem designed for transitional weather: ample trench coats, fluid trousers, matte, tactile textures. Look 37, with its soft brown coat, perfectly captures this shift into autumnal elegance: tailoring that warms without weighing down.

Accessories as punctuation

Accessories are not decorative,they extend the narrative. Patent loafers, paired with high socks, become the new totems of cool. The omnipresent sneaker is set aside; the dress shoe takes back its crown.

Discreet, polished, grounded. Beanies appear on impeccably groomed heads, a nod to Pharrell’s street roots, softening even the most formal silhouettes.

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Des pièces colorées qu'on ajouterait bien à son dressing

Some outfits linger long after the final walk. A long burgundy coat, cape-like in its flow, paired with brown striped shorts and a striped light blue shirt, exudes calm authority.

A monochrome red suit, punctuated by a patterned bag, embodies the urban man of the future: pragmatic, elegant, elusive.

A flawless navy suit, cinched with a black belt and gold buckle, classic and timeless.

A burgundy-red tailored suit paired with matching loafers and a coordinated belt, echoing a patterned black bag: an exercise in cohesion and refinement.

What strikes most in this collection is consistency. Pharrell builds a coherent universe, repetitive in the best sense. Light blue reappears again and again, primarily in shirts, becoming a signature. Trousers retain their airy, almost floating volume across looks. Loafers emerge as essential, a final note tying the silhouettes together. And above all, no look screams. Everything is muted, measured, precise. Style doesn’t demand: it asserts itself in silence.

The trousers retain their airy, almost floating volume from one look to the next. The loafer becomes essential, a final note tying all the silhouettes together. And above all, no silhouette shouts. Everything is muted, measured, precise. Style doesn’t prove itself; it imposes itself in silence.

Conclusion :

This PFW25 show marks a significant step in Pharrell Williams’ evolution of the men’s wardrobe. It’s not about revolution, but redefinition with subtlety. The suit, long a symbol of conformity, becomes here a tool of quiet individuality. Worn slightly loose, supple, free yet always authoritative. The Vuitton man doesn’t try to seduce; he draws you in naturally. He doesn’t shout; you listen. He advances, confident, in a tailoring of attitude.